The big benefit to me is the AVRIIs more solid design, freedom from the retainer wire slop & rattle, the locked down saddle screws and increased intonation travel. Some guys feel this is a major benefit, although I can't say I've noticed any difference one way or the other on the AVRIIs I have installed. I also forgot to mention, the ARVII offers the ability to lock the bridge to the post with a tiny allen screw. It has the same post spacing as an ABR-1, too, but a bit more saddle travel, and, without the risk of the saddle adj screws walking up towards the strings. The retaining wire on an AVRII is purely cosmetic, has no real function. The AVRII has "e" clips that hold the screws in place, very similar to the Nashville. I'm going to call them Monday to see if I the AVRII is available with a Nashville clip. According to their description of that specific bridge' date=' it still uses the spring like the ABR-1 and not the clip like the Nashville. I did a little research into the Tonepros AVRII. You can turn the saddles around if needed to intonate properly, it will vary on with different string gauges. The material in which it's made has more influence on the tone. Nickel, Gold, Chrome finish, not a factor in tone. They were suppose to be an improved design over the ABR-1, post don't bend and there is more room for intonation available with them but it would require drilling the body for the threaded inserts. I wouldn't suggest switching to the Nashville bridge if your guitar came with the ABR-1.
#1968 gibson es 125 tailpiece replacement upgrade
Definitely worth the upgrade in the long run. The aftermarket bridges have tightened up the tolerances and made improvements to the the ABR-1 style and material design. The screws jam, the saddles lift up, the spring vibrates and you can't intonate properly. Faber is good, Callahan is better, and Pigtails is very good. I plan on switching mine as soon as I have some income. I have red hundreds of threads on this and have to agree with them. The stock Gibson bridge is poorly constructed. I read last year that some of the new Gibson's models are coming from the factory with the Tone pros ABR-1 style locking bridges. Thes look virtually identical to an ABR-1, but use a NAshville-style clip to hold the saddle in place, and are just a bit wider, allowing more saddle travel. Lastly, if the bridge studs are improperly located (a common issue since the first ABR-1 was released in the '50s) and you can't get the bridge properly intonated, replace it with a Tonepros AVRII. These add more strength to the stud and increase vibration transfer to the top. If necessary, make a new one out of an unwound thord string (.017" or heavier).Ĥ) If the neck angle allows enough clearance under the bridge, use a second set of thumb wheels on the bridge studs, screwed tightly against the top of the guitar. You'll likely have to cut new slots to get the strings spaced evenly.ģ) Tighten up the retaining spring as much as possible. If you do the latter the screw will try to walk up towards the string. This increases vibration transfer and the stronger screws won't bend towards the nut like the stock ones.Ģ) As needed, turn the saddles around until they can be intonated properly, without jamming them into the end of the slots. Double nut them and run the screws firmly to the bottom of the holes. I use 1 1/2" lengths, either cut from rod or from screws which I cut the heads off of. A few things I always do with ABR-1s:ġ) replace the stock adjustment studs with longer stainless steel screws of the same thread pitch. They impart a unique tone that is worth striving for. Getting one set up right can drive you nuts, but it can be done. The problem you have is a common one with ABR-1s, which have a host of other issues, too. The Nashville is a great bridge design, but very intrusive for a conversion. Just order a set of replacement ABR-1 saddles and make a new one for your 6th string. Properly installing a Nashville on your ABR-1 guitar involves drilling large holes for the adjusting post anchors and if you don't like the way it sounds, or looks, reversing the process is a major endeavor. Would anyone recommend these, and would the nickel have any advantages over the chrome, or visa versa?ĭon't do that. I looked on the Gibson web site, and they are advertising the newer Nashville Tune-o-matic bridge. It works okay now, but I think I still want to just replace the whole bridge. Not a problem, I just filed in another groove. When I removed the spring and turned it around, I found the groove in the saddle messed up the string spacing. On my ES-335' date=' the saddle for the 6th string on my original bridge was reversed, and when I was adjusting the intonation, I found it would not move far enough back to intonate properly.
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